To be honest I was scared s**tless!
I woke up in the morning and was actually afraid to eat. I didn't want food revisiting me during the surf lesson. I kept asking myself "why the hell did I commit to doing this?".
In the words of my friend Sandy, however, "we only have one life to live...it can all change in a second". I want to live my life taking on challenges instead of shying away from them them.
I was simply hoping this wasn't "the second".
Of course it wasn't. The very first time I got up I stayed up for a few seconds and fell but I got a real rush from it. That awesome feeling of knowing you are riding a wave.
The next five times or so I just kept falling off and I was starting to think that first time would be "it", but I eventually managed to get two long surfs in (technically there were three but the third one wasn't quite as long...I didn't fall but the wave died). It will be an experience I will never forget and I am so glad I did it.
I'm actually over the fear and would totally do it again. I loved it!
After the surf we went to eat. There is a breakfast place we heard was great but when we went there the line up was so long we looked at each other and said "forget it". We ate across the street at McDonalds. I had two Egg McMuffins (no photo as I am pretty sure you know what that looks like).
It was about 11AM so we didn't have lunch (just some yummy Mango mid afternoon) and then had Spring rolls and Pho for dinner.
Two beers followed in the evening.
Another great day!
Aloha!
Alan
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